It appeared rusty, I'm guessing because it was exposed to the sweat from my hands when I was trying to break it apart. To make sure it would still work, I used the (annoying) continuity function on my digital multimeter to make sure all the rows were still connected.
Bonus points if you can name that tune.
What a nice little veroboard.
I added the two holes needed for the schematic. The picture on the Guitar FX blog shows the veroboard with the copper side facing down.
I soldered the 100nF on first, although I probably should've done the two links first. The links are denoted by the black lines on the schematic.
Top view. This will correspond to the schematic.
I added the first link. My solder joints aren't really that great, but they work!
Top side view.
Added the second link.
Top side view. Sorry it's blurry.
I really thought I took more pictures throughout the process, but I got involved in the project and forgot. So here's a picture of the bottom of the veroboard. I haven't cut the leads yet because I want to make sure the circuit works. I may have to de-solder something and move it around or something, so I'll keep the leads uncut.
Top view of the circuit. As you can see, I used sockets for the transistor, diode, and electrolytic capacitor. Transistors can burn out if you solder them directly; diodes and electrolytic capacitors have polarity so I wanted to make sure I put them on the correct way.
The soldering of the veroboard is complete.
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